The holiday is celebrated every year on the full moon of the eighth lunar month. This year Asalha Bucha falls on July 10. More than 2,500 years ago, on this very full moon, Gautama delivered his first public sermon.
The First Sermon
This marked the Buddha's debut as a teacher: near Varanasi, he addressed his first sermon to the five ascetics with whom he had previously practiced self-denial. The sermon laid the foundation of Buddhist philosophy and became known as "Turning the Wheel of Dharma." In it, the Buddha set out the Four Noble Truths, which the teaching still rests on today:
Dukkha: suffering is inherent to existence;
Samudaya: the source of suffering is attachment;
Nirodha: the cessation of suffering is possible by letting go of attachment;
Magga: the Noble Eightfold Path, leading to liberation.
Even someone with no connection to Buddhism has probably heard these truths somewhere before. They are, in essence, the tablets of the Asalha Bucha holiday. This day is also considered the founding day of the monastic community, the Sangha — wherever the first sermon was delivered, that's also where the first congregation began.
Buddhist ceremonies take place in temples across the country on this day: offerings of food to monks, sermon readings, group meditation, and evening candlelit processions — wian tian — in which people circle the main temple building three times clockwise, carrying lit candles, flowers, and incense.
Vassa
Many Thais try to make "tam bun" on this day — accumulating merit through good deeds: helping temples, keeping precepts, meditating, or even temporarily ordaining as a monk. But July 10 is only the beginning: the next day marks Khao Phansa, also known as Vassa — a three-month period of ascetic practice, or "rains retreat," running strictly until the October full moon.
The Rainy Season
According to tradition, traveling during the rainy months was considered unsafe, so Gautama allowed wandering monks (bhikkhus) to stay in one place until the rains stopped — both for their own sake and to spare the small creatures that surface during the monsoon and quietly cover the footpaths. Under the earlier rules for wandering monks, they weren't allowed to stay more than two nights in any home that took them in, so as not to burden their hosts. So it became customary for bhikkhus, once the rains arrived, to settle into the last hospitable home they found and try to be as unobtrusive as possible — since three months is, admittedly, one more mouth to feed, but by then also practically a member of the family.
The Retreat Today
The tradition survives today as a three-month retreat that monks undertake every year, and laypeople are welcome to join and share in a monk's routine for up to three months if they choose. Modern-day wanderers spend the "rainy season" in monasteries, and laypeople ease their path by making offerings and adopting their own ascetic adjustments to everyday life, right up through the October full moon.
So, from midsummer to mid-autumn, Thailand settles into a season of inner stillness. And if, during these months, people seem a little stricter, quieter, or keep their eyes on the ground a bit longer than usual — don't be surprised. That's just Vassa. Just Buddhism. And Buddhism, as everyone knows, has no patience for fuss. Especially in the rain.